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The Project Gutenberg eBook of Along Alaska's Great River, by Frederick Schwatka.Project Gutenberg's Along Alaska's Great River, by Frederick SchwatkaThis eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and mostother parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictionswhatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms ofthe Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online atwww.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll haveto check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.Title: Along Alaska's Great RiverAuthor: Frederick SchwatkaRelease Date: November 20, 2014 EBook #47402Language: EnglishCharacter set encoding: ASCII. START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ALONG ALASKA'S GREAT RIVER.Produced by Richard Tonsing, Greg Bergquist and the OnlineDistributed Proofreading Team at (Thisfile was produced from images generously made availableby The Internet Archive/American Libraries.). This Alaskan exploring expedition was composedof the following members: Lieut. Schwatka,U.S.A., commanding; Dr.

Wilson,U.S.A., Surgeon; Topographical Assistant Charles A.Homan, U.S. Engineers, Topographer and Photographer;Sergeant Charles A. Gloster, U.S.A., Artist; CorporalShircliff, U.S.A., in charge of stores; Private Roth,assistant, and Citizen J. McIntosh, a miner, who hadlived in Alaska and was well acquainted with its methodsof travel. Indians and others were added and dischargedfrom time to time as hereafter noted.The main object of the expedition was to acquiresuch information of the country traversed and its wildinhabitants as would be valuable to the militaryauthorities in the future, and as a map would be needfulto illustrate such information well, the party'sefforts were rewarded with making the expeditionsuccessful in a geographical sense. I had hoped tobe able, through qualified subordinates, to extend ourscientific knowledge of the country explored, especiallyin regard to its botany, geology, natural history,etc.; and, although these subjects would not in anyevent have been adequately discussed in a populartreatise like the present, it must be admitted that littlewas accomplished in these branches. The explanationof this is as follows: When authority was asked fromCongress for a sum of money to make such explorationsunder military supervision and the request was disapprovedby the General of the Army and Secretary ofWar.

The largest river on the North American continent so far as thismighty stream flows within our boundaries. The people ofthe United States will not be quick to take to the idea that the volumeof water in an Alaskan river is greater than that discharged bythe mighty Mississippi; but it is entirely within the bounds of honeststatement to say that the Yukon river. Discharges everyhour one-third more water than the 'Father of Waters.' —Petroff'sGovernment Report on Alaska.Leaving Portland at midnight on the 22d, the Victoriaarrived at Astoria at the mouth of the Columbia theforenoon of the 23d, the remaining hours of daylightbeing employed in loading with supplies for a number ofsalmon canneries in Alaska, the large amount of freightfor which had necessitated this extra steamer.

Thatnight we crossed the Columbia River bar and nextmorning entered the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the southernentrance from the Pacific Ocean which leads to the inlandpassage to Alaska.THE INLAND PASSAGE TO ALASKA. SITKA, ALASKA.The harbor of Sitka is so full of small islands thatlooking at it from a height it seems as if it could only bemapped with a pepper-box, and one wonders how anyvessel can get to her wharf. Once alongside, the waterseems as clear as the atmosphere above, and the smallestobjects can be easily identified at the bottom, thoughthere must have been fully thirty or forty feet of waterwhere we made our observations.On one of the large islands in Sitka harbor, calledJapanese Island, an old Niphon junk was cast, early inthe present century, and her small crew of Japanesewere rescued by the Russians.

Sitka has been so oftendescribed that it is unnecessary to do more than referthe reader to other accounts of the place.Ten o'clock in the forenoon of the 31st saw us underway steaming northward, still keeping to the inlandpassage, and en route to deliver wrecking machinery ata point in Peril Straits where the Eureka, a smallsteamer of the same line to which our ship belonged, hadformerly run on a submerged rock in the channel, whichdid not appear upon the charts. The unfortunate boathad just time to reach the shore and beach herself beforeshe filled with water. The Eureka's wreck was reachedby two in the afternoon, and as our boat might be detainedfor some time in assisting the disabled vessel,many of us embraced the opportunity to go ashore inthe wilds of the Alexander Archipelago.

The walkingalong the beach between high and low tide was tolerable,and even agreeable for whole stretches, especiallyafter our long confinement on the ship, where the facilitiesfor promenading were poor. To turn inland fromthe shore was at once to commence the ascent of a slopethat might vary from forty to eighty degrees, the climbingof which almost beggars description. CHILEAT BRACELETMADE FROM SILVER COIN.The Chilkat country was reached on the morningof the 2d of June and we dropped anchorin a most picturesque little port called PyramidHarbor, its name being derived from aconspicuous conical island that the Chilkatscall Schlay-hotch, and the few whites, PyramidIsland, shown on page.

There weretwo salmon canneries just completed, one on each sideof the inlet, awaiting the 'run' or coming of salmon,which occurred about two weeks later. Each cannery wasmanned by about a half dozen white men as directorsand workmen in the trades departments, the Chilkatsdoing the rougher work, as well as furnishing the fish.They differed in no material respect from the salmon canneriesof the great Columbia River, so often described.Just above them comes in the Chilkat river, with a broadshallow mouth, which, at low water (sixteen feet belowhigh water) looks like a large sand flat forming part ofthe shores of the harbor. On these bars the Indians spearthe salmon when the water is just deep enough to allowthem to wade around readily.Up this Chilkat river are the different villages of theChilkat Indians, one of fifteen or twenty houses being insight, on the east bank, the largest, however, which containsfour or five times as many houses, called Klukwan,being quite a distance up the river. These Chilkats aresubdivided into a number of smaller clans, named afterthe various animals, birds and fishes.

At about the timeof my arrival the chief of the Crow clan had died, and ashe was a very important person, a most sumptuous funeralwas expected to last about a week or ten days.These funerals are nothing but a series of feasts, protractedaccording to the importance of the deceased, andas they are furnished at the expense of the administratorsor executors of the dead man's estate, every Indianfrom far and wide, full of veneration for the dead and adesire for victuals, congregates at the pleasant ceremonies,and gorges to his utmost, being worthless for workfor another week afterward. As I urgently needed somethree or four score of these Indians to carry my effectson their backs across the Alaskan coast range of mountainsto the head waters of the Yukon river, this prolongedfuneral threatened seriously to prevent my gettingaway in good time. Ranking me as a chief, I was invitedto the obsequies and promised a very conspicuous positiontherein, especially on the last day when the bodywas to be burned on a huge funeral pyre of dryresinous woods. Cremation is the usual method of disposingof the dead among these people, the priests ormedicine men being the only ones exempt. The latterclaim a sort of infallibility and all of their predictions,acts, and influences capable of survival, live after themso long as their bodies exist, but should these be lost bydrowning, devouring, or cremation, this infallibilityceases. Therefore these defunct doctors of savage witch-craftinhabit the greatest portion of the few graveyardsthat one sees scattered here and there over the shores ofthe channels and inlets that penetrate the country. Cremationis not always resorted to, however, with the laity,for whenever convenience dictates otherwise, they toomay be buried in boxes, and this practice, I understand,is becoming more common.

Cremation is a savage honor,nevertheless, and slaves were not entitled to the rite. Allthe Indians were extremely anxious that I should attendthe obsequies of their dear departed friend, for if I didthey saw that they might also be present and yet feelsure of employment on my expedition over themountains. PYRAMID HARBOR, CHILKAT INLET.(Chilkat Indian Canoe in the foreground.)Some of these houses are quite respectable for savagehouse-making, the great thick puncheon planks of thefloor being often quite well polished, or at any rateneatly covered with white sand. Attempts at civilizationare made in the larger and more aristocratic abodes bypartitioning the huge hovel into rooms by means of draperiesof cloth or canvas. In some the door is made ashigh as it can be cut in the wall and is reached bysteps from the outside, while a similar flight inside givesaccess to the floor. The fire occupies the center of theroom, enough of the floor being removed to allow it tobe kindled directly on the ground, the smoke escapingby a huge hole in the roof.

The vast majority of thehouses are squalid beyond measure, and the dense resinoussmoke of the spruce and pine blackens the walls witha funereal tinge, and fills the house with an odor which,when mingled with that of decayed salmon, makes onefeel like leaving his card at the door and passing on. Ittakes no stretch of the imagination to conceive that sucharchitecture provides the maximum of ventilation whenleast needed, and it is a fact that the winter hours ofthe Chilkats are cold and cheerless in the extreme.

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Theysit crouched around the fire with their blankets closelyfolded about them and even drawn over their heads,the house serving indeed as a protection from thefierce wind and deep snow drifts, but no more.They look on all this foolishness, however, witha sort of Spartan fortitude as necessary to toughenthem and inure them to the rough climate, and at times,impelled by this belief, they will deliberately exposethemselves with that object in view. When the riversand lakes are frozen over the men and boys break greatholes in the ice and plunge in for a limited swim, thencome out, and if a bank of soft snow is convenient rollaround in it like so many polar bears; and when theyget so cold that they can't tell the truth they wanderleisurely back to the houses and remark that they havehad a nice time, and believe they have done somethingtoward making themselves robust Chilkat citizens ableto endure every thing. There is no wonder that suchpeople adopt cremation; and in fact one interpretationof its religious significance is based on the idea of futurepersonal warmth in the happy hunting grounds, whichthey regard as a large island, whose shores are unattainableexcept by those whose bodies have been duly consumedby fire. Unless the rite of cremation has beenperformed the unhappy shade shivers perpetually inouter frost. It is the impossibility of cremation whichmakes death by drowning so terrible to a Chilkat.The reason that the shamans, or medicine men (whosebodies are not cremated) have no such dread, is that theirsouls do not pass to the celestial island, but are translatedinto the bodies of infants, and in this way the cropof medicine men never diminishes, whatever may be thestatus of the rest of the population. Dreams anddivinations, or various marks of the child's hair or face,are relied upon to determine into which infant thesupreme and mysterious power of the defunct doctor ofTlinkit divinity has entered.

To enumerate all of thesesigns would consume more of my space than the subjectis worth. When a Chilkat dies the body is burned atsunrise, having first been dressed for the ceremony in acostume more elaborate than any which it ever wore inlife. The corpse must not be carried out at the door,which is deemed sacred, a superstition very commonamong savage races.

A few boards may be taken fromthe rear or side of the hovel, or the body may be hoistedthrough the capacious chimney in the roof; but when theChilkat in his last illness sought his house to lie downand die in it he passed over its threshold for the lasttime. Demons and dark spirits hover around like vultures,and are only kept out of doors by the dreadedincantations of the medicine men, and these may seizethe corpse as it passes out. So fiendishly eager are theyto secure and stab their prey that all that is needed is tolead out a dog from the house, which has been broughtinto it at night, when the witches fall upon it and exhausttheir strength in attacking it before they discover theirmistake.

CHILKAT INDIAN PACKER.By the 6th of June all of ourmany arrangements for departurewere fully completed, andthe next day the party gotunder way shortly before 10o'clock in the forenoon. Mr.Carl Spuhn, the Manager ofthe North-west Trading Company,which owned the westerncannery in the ChilkatInlet, where my party hadbeen disembarked, who had been indefatigable in hisefforts to assist me in procuring Indian packers, and inmany other ways aiding the expedition, now placed atmy disposal the little steam launch of the company, andbehind it, tied one to the other by their towing ropes,was a long string of from twelve to twenty canoes, eachcontaining from two to four Chilkat Indians, our prospectivepackers. Some of the Indians who had selectedtheir packs carried them in the canoes, but the bulk ofthe material was on the decks of the steam-launch'Louise.'

They disappeared out of sight in a littlewhile, steaming southward down the Chilkat Inlet,while with a small party in a row-boat I crossed thischannel and then by a good trail walked over to theHaines Mission, in Chilkoot Inlet, presided over by Mr.Eugene S. Willard and his wife, with a young ladyassistant, Miss Mathews, and maintained by the PresbyterianBoard of Missions as a station among the Chilkatand Chilkoot Indians.

Crossing the 'mission trail,'as it was called, we often traversed lanes in the grass, whichhere was fully five feet high, while, in whatever directionthe eye might look, wild flowers were growing in the greatestprofusion. Dandelions as big as asters, buttercupstwice the usual size, and violets rivaling the productsof cultivation in lower latitudes were visible around.It produced a singular and striking contrast to raise theeyes from this almost tropical luxuriance and allowthem to rest on the Alpine hills, covered, half way downtheir shaggy sides, with snow and glacier ice, and withcold mist condensed on their crowns.

Mosquitoes weretoo plentiful not to be called a prominent discomfort,and small gnats did much to mar the otherwise pleasantstroll. Berries and berry blossoms grew in a profusionand variety which I have never seen equaled withinthe same limits in lower latitudes. A gigantic nettlewas met with in uncomfortable profusion when oneattempted to wander from the beaten trail. Thisnettle has received the appropriate name of 'devil-sticks;'and Mr.

Spuhn of the party told me it wasformerly used by the Indian medicine-men as a prophylacticagainst witch-craft, applied externally, and witha vigor that would have done credit to the days of oldSalem, a custom which is still kept up among theseIndians. Gardens have been cultivated upon this narrowpeninsula, the only comparatively level track ofconsiderable size in all south-eastern Alaska, with a successwhich speaks well for this part of the territory asfar as climate and soil are concerned, although the terriblyrough mountainous character of nearly all of thispart of the country will never admit of any broad experimentsin agriculture. By strolling leisurely along andstopping long enough to lunch under the great cedartrees, while the mosquitoes lunched off us, we arrived atthe mission on Chilkoot Inlet just in time to see thelittle launch in the distance followed by its long processionof canoes, heading for us and puffing away as if itwere towing the Great Eastern. It had gone down theChilkat Inlet ten or twelve miles to the southward,turned around the sharp cape of the peninsula, PointSeduction, and traveled back northward, parallel to itsold course, some twelve to fifteen miles to where we werewaiting for it, having steamed about twenty-five miles,while we had come one-fifth the distance to the samepoint. Here quite a number of Chilkoot natives andcanoes were added to the already large throng; Mrs.Schwatka, who had accompanied me thus far, was left inthe kind care of the missionary family of Mr. Willard;adieus were waved and we once more took our northwardcourse up the Chilkoot Inlet. METHODS OF TRACKING A CANOE UP A RAPID.During the still, quiet evening we could hear manygrouse hooting in the spruce woods of the hillsides, thistime of day seeming to be their favorite hour for concerts.The weather on this, the first day of our trip, was splendid,with a light southern wind that went down with thesun and gave us a few mist-like sprinkles of rain, servingto cool the air and make slumber after our fatigue doublyagreeable.

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The head of canoe navigation on the Dayayriver, where it terminates abruptly in a huge boiling cascade,is ten miles from the mouth of the stream, althoughfully fifteen are traveled by the canoemen in ascendingits tortuous course, which is accomplished by the usualIndian method of 'tracking,' with ropes and poles fromthe bank of the river. I observed that they 'tracked'their canoes against the current in two ways, each methodrequiring two men to one canoe. The diagrams givenwill show these methods; in No. 1, anIndian pulls the canoe with a rope,while a companion just in his rear andfollowing in his steps keeps the headof the canoe in the stream, with a longpole, at just such distance as he maydesire according to the obstacles thatare presented. If the water from thebank for some distance out, say twelveor fifteen feet, is clear of all obstacles,his companion will fall to the rear asfar as his pole will allow and assist theropeman by pushing up stream, butin shallow, swift places he has all hecan do to regulate the canoe's coursethrough the projecting stones, andthe burden of the draft falls on theropeman. In the other mode both themen use poles and all the motive poweris furnished by pushing.

The advantageover the first is that in 'boiling'water full of stones, the bowman maysteer his end clear of all of these, onlyto have the seething waters throw thestern against a sharp corner of a rockand tear a hole in that part, an accident which can onlybe avoided by placing a pole-man at the stern. It isreadily apparent, however, that there is much morepower expended in this method of making headwayagainst the current than in the other. Some few of theIndians judiciously vary the two methods to suit the circumstances.On long stretches of only moderately swiftwater the tired trackers would take turns in resting in thecanoe, using a paddle to hold the bow out from the shore.The current of the Dayay is very swift, and two days'tracking' is often required to traverse the navigablepart of the stream. Every few hundred yards or so theriver needs to be crossed, wherever the timber on thebanks is dense, or where the circuitous river cuts deepinto the high hillsides that form the boundaries of itsnarrow valley.

In these crossings from fifty to a hundredyards would often be lost. The Indians seemed tomake no effort whatever to stem the swift current incrossing, but pointed the canoe straight across for theother bank and paddled away as if dear life dependedon the result.

A VIEW IN THE DAYAY VALLEY. (FROMCAMP 4.)A finger of the Saussure Glacier is seen peeping round the mountain, the rest being covered with fog.At this camp I saw the Chilkat boy packers wrestlingin a very singular manner, different from any thing inthat branch of athletics with which I am acquainted.The two wrestlers lie flat on their backs upon the groundor sand and against each other, but head to foot, or inopposite directions. Their inner legs, i.e., those touchingtheir opponents, are raised high in the air, carried pasteach other, and then locked together at the knee. Theythen rise to a sitting posture, or as nearly as possible,and with their nearest arms locked into a firm hold atthe elbows, the contest commences. It evidently requiresno mean amount of strength to get on top of an equaladversary, and the game seems to demand considerableagility, although the efforts of the contestants, as theyrolled around like two angle worms tied together, appearedmore awkward than graceful. POSITION OF THE FEET IN WALKING A LOG,AS PRACTICED BY THE CHILKAT INDIANS.Northward from this camp (No.

4), lying between theNourse and Dayay Rivers, was the southern terminalspur of a large glacier, whose upper end was lost in thecold drifting fog that clung to it, and which can be seenon page. I called it the Saussure Glacier, afterProfessor Henri de Saussure, of Geneva, Switzerland.The travels in the Dayay Inlet and up the valley of theriver had been reasonably pleasant, but on the 10th ofJune our course lay over the rough mountain spurs ofthe east side for ten or twelve miles, upon a trail fullyequal to forty or fifty miles over a good road for a day'swalking. Short as the march was in actual measurement,it consumed from 7:30 in the morning until 7:15 in theevening; nearly half the time, however, being occupiedin resting from the extreme fatigue of the journey. Infact, in many places it was a terrible scramble up anddown hill, over huge trunks and bristling limbs of fallentimber too far apart to leap from one to the other, whilebetween was a boggy swamp that did not increase thepleasure of carrying a hundred pounds on one's back.Sometimes we would sink in almost to our knees, whileevery now and then this agony was supplemented by therecurrences of long high ridges of rough bowlders oftrachyte with a splintery fracture. The latter felt likehot iron under the wet moccasins after walking on themand jumping from one to the other for awhile. Some ofthese great ridges of bowlders on the steep hillsides mu.